Arancine al ragù
in dialect: arancine (Palermo) · arancini (Catania)
Saffron rice balls filled with meat ragù and caciocavallo
Arancine are Sicily’s best-known street food: saffron rice shaped around a filling of slow-cooked meat ragù, peas and caciocavallo, coated in breadcrumbs and fried until deep gold.
The story
Palermo calls them arancine and shapes them round, like the little oranges they are named after; Catania calls them arancini and shapes them into a point, like Etna. Both cities are sure they are right. In Palermo they are eaten in their thousands on 13 December, Santa Lucia, when by tradition no bread or pasta is eaten. They take time, but every stage can be done a day ahead, and the cold rice is what makes them hold their shape.
Ingredients
Saffron rice
Ragù
To fill, coat and fry
You will need
- Large shallow tray for cooling the rice
- Deep heavy pan and a kitchen thermometer
Method
1Make the ragù
Warm the oil in a heavy pan and cook the onion, carrot and celery gently for 10 minutes until soft. Add the mince and brown it, breaking it up. Pour in the wine and let it bubble away, then stir in the tomato purée and passata with 200 ml (¾ cup) of water. Cover and simmer gently for 1 hour, stirring now and then, until thick. Add the peas for the last 10 minutes and season. It must be thick enough to hold on a spoon. Cool completely.
2Cook the rice
Bring the water to the boil with the salt and the saffron. Add the rice, stir, and cook over a low heat, stirring often, for 15–17 minutes until the rice has absorbed all the water and is just tender. Off the heat, beat in the butter and grated cheese.
3Cool the rice
Spread the rice on a tray in a layer about 2 cm (¾ in) deep, cover and leave until completely cold, at least 2 hours or overnight in the fridge.
Tip: Warm rice will not hold together. Cold, firm rice is the whole secret.
4Shape
With damp hands, take about 100 g (a large handful) of rice, flatten it in your palm and press a hollow in the centre. Spoon in a tablespoon of ragù and a cube or two of cheese. Close the rice around the filling and roll into a ball (Palermo) or a cone (Catania), pressing firmly.
5Coat
Whisk the flour and cold water into a smooth batter. Dip each arancina in the batter, then roll it in the breadcrumbs until fully coated. Chill for 30 minutes if you have time.
6Fry
Heat the oil in a deep pan to 170–175°C (340–350°F). Fry 2 or 3 at a time for 4–5 minutes, turning, until deep golden. Drain on kitchen paper and rest for 5 minutes before eating: the centre stays very hot.
Tips for success
- Make the ragù and rice the day before and shaping is quick.
- Keep a bowl of water by you while shaping; damp hands stop the rice sticking.
- Fry in small batches so the oil temperature does not drop, or the crust turns greasy.
Variations
- Al burro: fill with diced ham, mozzarella and a little béchamel instead of ragù.
- Spinach and mozzarella, or aubergine (alla Norma) for a meat-free version.
Making ahead and storing
Shaped, uncooked arancine keep in the fridge for a day, or freeze them breadcrumbed and fry from frozen at 160°C (320°F) for 8–9 minutes. Reheat cooked arancine in the oven at 190°C (375°F) for 15 minutes.
What to drink
A chilled Frappato or a Cerasuolo di Vittoria: light reds with enough acidity for fried food.
Arancine al ragù: your questions
Is it arancina or arancino?
Both. In Palermo and western Sicily it is arancina, round and feminine; in Catania and the east it is arancino, often shaped into a cone. The plural is arancine or arancini.
Why does my rice fall apart?
The rice was too warm or too wet. Cook it until all the water is absorbed and let it go completely cold before shaping.
Can I bake arancine instead of frying?
You can bake them at 200°C (400°F) for 25 minutes, brushed with olive oil, but they will not have the same crisp shell.
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